The Sologne and the Orléans forest
immediately evoke game birds and animals. Just close your eyes and
have someone read out some pages from a Loiret local recipe book and
your mouth will start watering with expectation for the flavours from
our forests.
Go on, just close your eyes for a moment and imagine:
- « Civet de lièvre »,
- Jugged hare
- « Lapin de Garenne au chou »
- Garenne rabbit with cabbage
- « Faisan en barbouille »
- Basted pheasant
- « Pigeon ramier en croûte »
- Wood pigeon in pastry
- « Perdreaux au verjus »
- Partridge in verjuice
- « Cailles à la vigneronne »
- Quails in wine
- « Cuissot de chevreuil, de cerf ou de biche à la grand venue »
- Haunch of hung deer, hart or hind,
- « Filet de sanglier aux airelles »
- Boar fillet steak with bilberries
- …etc…
After this virtual meal, whilst your mouth is still watering, allow us
to tell you about a succulent dish that unfortunately is no longer
available: "LARK PÂTE"…
Extract from the book by Gérard BOUTET (editions Jean-Cyrille
Godefroy), "Our Grandmothers and their Ovens".
"The religious wars were raging and the country was under Hugenot
control. One night, King Charles disguised himself as a bourgeois and
attempted to cross the forest without an armed escort, just with a
squire in attendance. He was caracoling towards “le Château du
Hallier”, near to Nibelle (where a supper cooked by Marie, his
favourite, was waiting for him) when he was ambushed by brigands and
found himself tightly tied to a tree. The bandits had not recognised
him in his disguise. Having quickly relieved him of his valuables, of
little consequence to him, they forced his squire to serve them food,
and started to eat an enormous, very appetising pâté. The King was
stuck by pangs of hunger. Each time one of these rogues took a
mouthful, it was if he was being tortured. No longer able to resist,
he risked everything and stated his true identity. The head of the
gang immediately released him, went down on one knee and, in his
embarrassment, offered the King the last remaining portion of pâté.
Even though there was only a lit bit left, the King thouroughly
enjoyed it. Then he continued on his way, with a full stomach and to
the applause of the brigands. All that remained was to taste further
delights in the arms of Marie Touchet.
Charles IX never forgot the tenderness of the pâté (naturally, made
from larks), whilst he did forget the tender pleasures of his
beautiful companion. He sought out the pastry chef who had made this
excellent pastry and awarded him the enviable title of Crown Supplier.
The chap was called Provenchère. Naturally, he had a shop in
Pithiviers. His pâté became famous at court and thus entered into the
annals of history.
But times have changed radically since then. For a long time, catching
larks in bird nets has been prohibited and is considered to be
poaching. As this species becomes rarer, there is a fear that this
Pithiverais specialty will finally disappear completely."